REVOMAZE User Group

THANK YOU! Was trying to figure out the mapping for the rotational component and wasn't having much luck. I will take a look at a new method when I get home.

What I use is a paper ruler, length of 75 mm (shaft circumference), stick both ends together using tape and put that on the shaft, so the ruler ring can freely rotate and go up and down on the shaft. You can then measure rotation by aligning the zero of the ruler with the dot on the sleeve and then rotate the shaft. You could then simply mark that as your new origin by aligning the zero with the dot again. Works perfectly! Only difficult when the shaft is not pulled out alot, but I can get it to work even with only 1 mm pulled out.

Good luck!

I found a nice CNC simulator and what I am going to do with it is the following:

- Draw the mapping on mm paper using lines
- In G-Code program the coordinates of the lines and use a 3mm mill with flat head to mill it, at various depths depending on what kind of groove it is

Pretty silly maybe, but maybe it is easier than drawing on paper and erase stuff. Once you have the lines you can let the simulator do the milling and automatically have the correct traced paths, I hope

I measure the depth of the internal cylinder with a pair of callipers and map the different sections of the mazes using tracing paper over the top of completed area (I’ll put pictures in the relevant maze completed forums).

Here is a book I’m putting together with all my notes, going to get some of those replacement bubble logos from the website

I am going to attempt my first map on my first Revomaze, the GM. After some quick calculations and a few sheets of graph paper later, I have a grid space that is 80 high and 30 wide. (80 represents the length of the shaft as it moves through the cylinder. The 30 is the rotation) If I hold the maze upright so the “R” is facing me and toward the ceiling, so the shaft slowly falls down out of the cylinder, how do I know where to start my map? In the middle of one of the long 80 sides, 30 sides, or or in a certain corner? (I am trying to keep my map roughly centered on the page... AKA I I do not want to go off the side of the page and have to flip back and forth. The state I am in right now, I can’t get back to the neutral beginning. I an stuck where one of the hexes protrudes 5 mm from the right side. I am going to use that as my start/reference point. Is there anyway to completely reset the GM?

Not sure if this is the right place, but, As I do not have access to a 3D printer, and these “mapping aids” seem to be the best way to go, would any of you that have created one be willing to sell me one? My mapping skills have epically failed in the past.

I know a lot of people have discussed different mapping techniques, but I am curious how others do it. Plus, it might help those who are just getting into the mazes with ideas on how to go about mapping.

How do you map? What do you use to help make you map better?
What do you think would help you be better at mapping?
If you don't map, why not? When did you start mapping the mazes?

And for those of you who have seen maps in the open forums, who makes the best maps?
If anyone thinks me making a mapping thread is inappropriate, let me know, and we can close/discontinue/move it to somewhere more appropriate.

I mapped freehand (without any measurements) for Blue, Green and Bronze. My next one was Silver and there I mapped with graph paper and a ruler.

I have no-mapped a few for the solve, most recently Aqua and Sapphire as well as Copper (in progress). But then I map it after solving it and before opening.

These days I use measuring tape wrapped around the sleeve to measure the rotation distance, calipers to measure the length of the core that’s come out, and draw it all freehand on an iPad with a custom “graph paper”-like template I made for it as a backing layer.

Ultimately, whatever process allows you to imagine and visualize the details is good enough. Most of them can be solved by just thinking and a crude freehand map. The advanced ones do benefit from precise measurements if only to give you more thinking avenues IMO.

I also freehand mapped Sapphire, Aqua, Turquoise, & Emerald.

I take lined paper and use 7 rows along with the serial number/flat area to get a decent idea of where I am. The last 10%-20% doesn't get mapped. I think anything that requires you to put down a puzzle to map is actually more distracting than helpful.

Welcome to the forum, davidreyan15. If you want to learn about mapping, you're definitely in the right thread. Have a read through the provious posts. There are pleanty of good methods already in here. If you're tempted to build a mapping tool like the laser cut or 3D printed mappers, I would caution you that they can detract from the challenge of these puzzles. If you want the full experience, maybe start with some of the measureing, drawing on graph paper, and pulling your hair out techniques. Have fun!