REVOMAZE User Group

303-Acid wrote:Could you have the base of the pin wider than the tip of the pin? The base say 3mm to hold in the spring and the tip 1.5mm to follow the maze?

There is still the issue of engraving the maze on such a small shaft. If I'm not mistaken, wasn't that one of the issues?

All of your walls would need to be slanted. That would be harder to machine. It probably wouldn't "feel" like a revo anymore. It'd be sturdier than a 1.5 mm pin though. Good thought.

Why would they have to be slanted? All it would be is similar to the main reset line, and everything else would be solid so the only path is just moving it back and forth. It would look like the open position when pulled out, and closed when pushed in.

I don't see a reason for the walls to be slanted if that were the case.

303-Acid wrote:Could you have the base of the pin wider than the tip of the pin? The base say 3mm to hold in the spring and the tip 1.5mm to follow the maze?

If the pin is slanted then the paths need to be slanted or it defeats the purpose of the smaller tip.

left027 wrote:

303-Acid wrote:Could you have the base of the pin wider than the tip of the pin? The base say 3mm to hold in the spring and the tip 1.5mm to follow the maze?

If the pin is slanted then the paths need to be slanted or it defeats the purpose of the smaller tip.

Oh, you were responding to 303's post. Well anyhow, I still don't see how the pin is slanted enough that the path would need to be slanted. It is just a way of holding the pin in, not to follow the path. So the pin would still follow the path as if it were a regular Revomaze pin, only a different size altogether.

You're decreasing the pin width by half. In order for it to be sturdy the pin would have to look like a cone.

For the "spring problem", you guys could just cut a pen spring and bend the "pointy" end inwards, and put it in a hole in the shaft.

After reading this I decided to make a mini-revo. I just wanted a simple, single layer path, so no spring needed. I placed my dremel trio on the base of my pantograph router, and secured two parallel pieces of wood, leaving room for a rod. Then all I did was draw a simple maze on the rod with a pencil, turned on the dremel, and cut/ routed.

If you guys want I can post a pic of the setup, sorry I'm not really good at explaining things...

Ginger wrote:If you guys want I can post a pic of the setup

I'd love to see some pics of the set up and the end result.

Made a real mess cutting the ramp for the start but managed to alter it so I could still get onto the maze path.

I coloured the maze so it would show up better on the pictures.

So that I can try the maze and still get at it, if it fails, I created two halves with the same diameters as the case I was going to use. Then drilled a 3mm hole through it, put the pin in and held it all together with a rubber band (instead of a rubber bead ) the original pin is long enough to be held against the maze in order to test it. It actually took quite a while to open it even knowing the layout

It Clicks aswell.

AWESOME!!!!!