REVOMAZE User Group

When you map, you need to feel everything accurately to write it down correctly, that's one of the reasons it helps to understand the place

This is just a post test.

Pre post test? When do we get the post post test...

I can't remember when, or in which thread, but someone was asking about mapping rotational distance accurately without using the serial number as a guide. As since I'm about to start mapping my new gold revo (thanks, Darctangent!), I thought I'd share my technique.

The bolt end of the shaft is my reference point. The circumference of the bolt is 70 mm, which consists of seven large sides (8 mm) alternating with seven smaller 2 mm sides. See photo.

I use graph paper where each line represents 1 mm of rotation. I simply mark on the edge of my graph the location of the 2 mm sides. See photo.

I find this method to be very accurate.

Okay, dumb question: Where should one start the mapping on graph paper? Right edge? Left edge? Top of paper? Bottom of paper? Middle?

My first thought would be to start on the right edge with the page sitting taller than it is wide and to start mapping at the middle of that right edge.

(my first two puzzles are hopefully on the way -- blue and copper)

Agrajag wrote:Okay, dumb question: Where should one start the mapping on graph paper? Right edge? Left edge? Top of paper? Bottom of paper? Middle?

My first thought would be to start on the right edge with the page sitting taller than it is wide and to start mapping at the middle of that right edge.

(my first two puzzles are hopefully on the way -- blue and copper)

Personal preference. Some people have really large, very detailed maps, and need as much space as possible, so they are likely to start on the far right edge working to the left. Some people have smaller, less detailed maps, like myself. I start slightly off center, so when my map is done, it sits in the middle of the paper.

As far as your paper being wider or taller. The puzzle is nearly twice the length in width as it is tall, so it's best no matter how you map to draw on the paper "Hot dog style"

I play with the puzzle to find the main reset trap, and I'll put that on the right side of my map. My maps completely fill my page, so putting this trap on the right edge eliminates paths that would "wrap around" the edges of my map.

I always draw the start ring along the bottom of my map.

A sheet of 11x17 with 1/4" grid lines, where each line represents 1 mm, is almost perfect. Almost. I always need to tape 6 more grid lines on the short edge of the page.

Thanks. My two puzzles are apparently getting here Friday which is much faster than I anticipated. I'm almost dreading the up and down elation/frustration cycle. <grin> (I have toyed with a friend's blue some time ago)

Just started toying with Blue for my first experience.

I started mapping with Google Sheets and found the rectangles annoying. Manually made the squares and it's better but still not optimal as it's a pain in the rear to set the borders of each cell. If you want to turn off one side you have to clear all sides and then set the right ones.

I then jumped into AutoCAD thinking this might be better. It is in a way, but not entirely. I started using an index card with 1/8" marks on it (I don't have a metric ruler) and that was helpful in clearing up guesses on the spreadsheet I had but then I ran into an area that didn't line up right. Time to fix that.

I'm at my first dead end with it. One path leads to a dead end, another seems to be a direct trap line (a long one) back to the beginning from the middle, and all moves left end in a trap. Hmm. Need more detail!

If you are having trouble finding a mapping technique that you like, I really enjoy mapping on 1mm graph paper, I just print it from online, make sure it is a good printer however or you will not be able to distinguish the cells.